In Japanese history, textile production has a long and rich tradition. Over many centuries, not only the production techniques but also the motifs and patterns applied to the fabrics have been developed and perfected. One of the most typical and common motifs found on Japanese textiles is seigaiha.
Seigaiha (Jap. “blue ocean waves”) is a motif of concentric circles (usually four circles) arranged in rows, with the lower row partially overlapping the upper one in a way that the visible parts of the circles resemble ocean waves. Although considered typically Japanese today, this pattern originated from China, where it was used to depict the sea on ancient maps. The oldest textile with this pattern in Japan, probably from the Kofun period (3rd – 6th century), was found on the clothing of haniwa, ritual terracotta figurines that were placed in tombs alongside the deceased. In the Heian period (8th – 12th century), the pattern was used for a long train that dragged on the floor, one of the twelve pieces of the junihitoe, luxurious ceremonial attire.
Seigaiha pattern is no longer just associated with fabrics from the 12th century; it also appears on ceramics, lacquered wooden objects, or as an ornamental decoration in architecture.
Dancers performing gagaku, an ancient court dance accompanied by music, were dressed in costumes adorned with this design. It is believed that the motif’s name, seigaiha, originated from the title of a piece of music danced to. According to another version, an artist from the Edo period named Seikai Kanshichi not only greatly admired this pattern and frequently used it in his works but also devised a way to transfer it onto black lacquer using a brush, leading some experts to believe that the name seigaiha derived from his name.
Seigaiha was most commonly seen in white and blue, representing the color of the sea and waves, although other colors and various color gradients were also used. Additionally, other elements such as birds, fish, or flower petals were interwoven into the main motif, and it was often used as a background for the main motif. The motive is intended to enrich the overall appearance of the adorned object or painting. It is said that the four concentric arches of this motif symbolize the four seas by which Japan is surrounded. It is one of several typical traditional Japanese patterns known as “auspicious motifs” that were used to bring luck and attract specific qualities, such as strength, generosity, or beauty. According to this interpretation, the blue and white seigaiha motif brings tranquility and eternal peace to a person.